Into the Karoo...(Karoo NP, South Africa): October 2, 2009

Leaving the rocky crags of Swartberg behind and the rich swathe of Afromontane rainforest on the coast at Wilderness we moved into a markedly different landscape-the almost barren looking Karoo. Stunted shrubs and low-lying vegetation were in marked contrast to our previous few days birding. The place is great for both birds and also an under appreciated mammal venue. The good birds of the day included an unobtrusive African Rock Pipit working its way through the boulders, an extremely confiding Layard's Tit-Babbler (see photo), a Lark-like Bunting doing its best to look anything but a bunting, a Short-toed Rock-thrush, a few Karoo Korhaans, and finally a Cinnamon-breasted Warbler relented, and decided to co-operate with us and hopped around on the burnt orange boulders just a few feet away.

Mammals were good too with some Klipspringers (see photo) encountered along the way, perched on the very tips of their hooves as is their odd and unique way, and the night drove produced one of the animals of the trip with a superb Aardwolf loafing across the Karoo in the spotlight, in additon to a Caracal, and a single Gemsbok (Oryx). We also wondered where the hell all the Cape Mountain Zebras had been that magically appeared out of the ether post-darkness, even chomping on vegetation just acros from our cabins, that had been mysteriously hidden (in this open terrain) during daylight hours!

Swartberg Pass…(South Africa): October 1, 2009

This day was all about spectacular mountain scenery. We finished our time in Wilderness during the morning where we blazed a trail through rich Afromontane forest, (that held a couple of Olive Bush-shrikes and a nice Narina Trogon), although by the end of the morning we had climbed out of this coastal forest belt, and moved inland and upwards into the Swartberg mountains. Low alpine fynbos vegetation took over the landscape (that brought us a couple of fynbos specials in the form of Victorin’s Warbler and the scarce Protea Seedeater), which became dramatically craggy, with steep rocky outcrops, and breathtaking vistas. Just the kind of treeless landscape that you would not expect to find a woodpecker, although that is what we had come here for. Southern Africa has a strange endemic species of woodpecker that exists in areas devoid of trees, in dramatic landscapes like this one at Swartberg Pass. It is aptly called the Ground Woodpecker, and it does indeed spend most of its time on the ground or hanging out on rocks, one of just a handful of ground-dwelling woodpeckers on the planet (along with Campo and Andean Flickers of South America). After jumping out of the car we noticed a Cape Rockjumper perched up on a jagged boulder looking down on us, and after a bit of searching we found one magnificent Ground Woodpecker. The scenes above are taken from the 1 436m (4 875ft) high pass, (that was constructed by convicts in 1888), although the woodpecker shot was taken at the arid Karoo NP the following day.

Into the Wilderness...(South Africa): September 30, 2009

Next stop on this absorbing tour of South Africa's top birding spots and prime game reserves was the touristy town of Wilderness. While most go there for the cool forests and scenic coastline, we were there for a good set of birds. As soon as we arrived at our quaint, faintly English, guesthouse we were met by the seriously friendly and accommodating proprietors, Sue and Phil, and also a hearty set of birds checking out their feeders. For our few days on site we enjoyed fresh muffins and hearty breakfasts while birds buzzed in and out from their feeders, while we feasted on a variety of wonderful home-baked goods nearby. Top among the veranda birds were a number of tame Knysna Touracos (see photos), a vision in lime green, that suddenly turns scarlet in flight due to huge flashes of crimson in their wings. Other notable visitors were Chorister Robin (see photo), Forest Canary, Southern Boubou, a rowdy rabble of scavenging Fork-tailed Drongos with a passion for cheese, Terrestrial Brownbul, Cape Robin-Chat, Red-necked Spurfowl (see photo), Sombre Bulbul, Red-eyed Dove, Southern Grey-headed Sparrow, Swee Waxbill (see photo), and I am sure a few I have forgotten along the way. Quite a performance. One thing I cannot fathom though, the place is called Wilderness, although it could not be nearer civilisation. mean there was always a hearty game pie on the menu wherevere we chose to dine!

The Forgotten Korhaans...(South Africa): September 28, 2009

Sorry, forgot to post the photo of a pair of Karoo Korhaans on the Agulhas Plains a few posts back. Here they are at last! 11 of these endemic bustards were seen prowling the plains during that lark-packed afternoon en-route to De Hoop.

De Hoop Wildlife...(South Africa): September 28, 2009

In the late afternoon, after a frantic spell of non-stop shutter action during the marvellous photo opportunities on our journey to Malagas, we finally arrived at De Hoop, and started seeing some of the "megafauna" that the area is rightly famed for. Despite avian distractions like a couple of stately Secretarybirds prowling the plains, and a testosterone fuelled display by a closeby Stanley's Bustard, we took in a few of the animals feeding out in the late afternoon sun: several herds of Elands roamed the fringes of the reserve (see photo), and our first striped-up animals made an appearance with several Cape Mountain Zebras, in addition to the striking forms of ten or more Bontebok quietly feeding just before the sun set on what had been a great day, for delicious gamey pies, a flurry of new and fascinating birds, and a few big animals to boot. You just have to love South Africa!

Agulhas Plains to De Hoop...(South Africa): September 28, 2009

A fantastic afternoon was spent digesting a tasty springbok pie, and making our way from Swellendam to De Hoop. The Overberg Wheatlands were laden with birds, larks hopped on and off fence posts along the way, bustards strutted proudly through the huge wheat fields (including 11 different Karoo Korhaans-see photo, and a chest-pumping male Stanley's Bustard in full display), and South Africa's national bird, the majestic Blue Crane (see photo) was out in numbers. By the end of the day we had tallied up over 100 of these regal birds alone. Here are a few more highlights: the generously endowed Agulhas Long-billed Lark, and a Capped Wheatear.

Farewell to Capetown...(South Africa): September 28, 2009

We finally left windy Capetown behind today and headed off east towards the Agulhas Plains. In the afternoon, after a hearty lunch of Springbok Pie with Cape Robin-Chats (see photos) and Fiscal Flycatchers (see photo) flitting around our Swellendam restaurant garden, we headed off onto the Algulhas Plains for a plethora of larks, and a bunch of bustards...(see next post)