Andes Custom Introtour Day 1 (Ecuador) 25 Feb 2010

A very special gang of birding friends began a tour with me on this day, a mixed group from the Magee Marsh area of Ohio. A mixture of folks from the Black Swamp Bird Observatory, Ottawa NWR, and Maumee Bay State Park came over to Ecuador to find out what all the fuss is about. So I set about showing them... We began on the cloudy slopes of Pichincha, at the spectacular hummingbird reserve of Yanacocha, just a short drive from the capital Quito. The Andes is ALL about multicolored mixed flocks and the craziness of this all, and we saw this first hand. Among the melee of species present we picked out several butch tanagers including the striking Scarlet-bellied & Black-chested Mountain-Tanagers, Blue-backed Conebills, and the strangely-named Superciliaried Hemispingus (much to Laura's delight!) Also along the trail was an all too brief Barred Fruiteater, and a not so brief Ocellated Tapaculo that already was vying for bird of the trip just a few hours in. This polka-dotted Andean beauty is tough to beat in my book, and not surprisingly another group soon joined up with us eagerly to treasure this cool mountain bird.

The hummer feeders were predictably busy, with the outrageous Sword-billed Hummingbird proving the showstopper there (one of an outstanding 24 hummer species seen that day here and at Tandayapa Lodge in the late afternoon), competing not only with hummers but several nectar parasites too, in the form of several cobalt blue Masked Flowerpiercers and Glossy Flowerpiercers too (top photos).

Over lunch a Tawny Antpitta came to check us out, popping onto a fence post and glaring at us (jealously) while we picnicked on site! The afternoon was quieter but thrilling all the same for a couple of notable additions: the dreamy blue Turquoise Jay (bottom photo), and the gob-smacking Andean Cock-of-the-rock, dressed in bright vermilion, munching on cecropia catkins.

El Cajas to finish...(Ecuador): 18 Feb 2010

The final day of this short tour was spent amongst the magnificent scenery of the high Andes, in the national park of El Cajas, just outside the colonial city of Cuenca. It was another full on day, with a bounty of birds for us in this markedly different environment from what we had experienced previously. A foray into an area of cloud forest bought us a pair of Rufous Antpittas hopping boldly along a trail ahead of us, and an Andean Guan hiding out in the low trees.

As we ascended up towards the paramo grasslands that dominate this vast park, we made several roadside pit stops. First for an obliging Violet-throated Metaltail, then for an even more obliging Andean Tit-spinetail (third photo), in addition to our fifth and final antpitta of this 8 day trip-Tawny Antpitta (to add to Rufous, Jocotoco, Watkins's, Slate-crowned seen earlier). Up on the open paramo we found a pair of strutting Carunculated Caracaras, and a small group of Andean Lapwing.

However, the star performers were hiding out in the flaky red polylepis woodland. This tree is the highest growing of any in the world, and supports few birds. However, the ones it does support are very special indeed. First we found the tame, glowing blue Tit-like Dacnis working the woods at the edge of a scenic lake (fourth photo), and then a movement caught our eyes and we homed in on the nuthatch-like Giant Conebill gleaning from the trunk of a polylepis. Try as I might I just could not get a shot. Then amazingly, after lunch we wandered into another polylepis patch and chanced upon another of these magical Andean birds. This one was way more helpful and my camera went into overdrive (top two photos). A great way to end this fast-paced, bird-packed, short circuit of the south.

Jocotoco Antpitta Video (Tapichalaca, Ecuador): 17 Feb 2010

Here is a rather poor video taken handheld on my Blackberry of the oh so friendly young Jocotoco Antpitta at Tapichalaca...

Tapichalaca Tapaculos (Ecuador): 17 Feb 2010

With just a morning to continue exploring Tapichalaca before we had to head north to the colonial city of Cuenca, Rich decided to return to the Jocotoco Trail, although not just for a shot at seeing the adult antpittas that were uncharacteristically absent the day before (when the juvenile entertained us instead), but also for the chance of one spotty tapaculo. However, first up was a tapaculo but not the special polka-dotted one that Rich was so keen on, but a Chusquea Tapaculo, that was visiting the compost pile behind the lodge. On our way up the Jocotoco Trail we bumped into a striking Long-tailed Antbird, and pretty soon after re-acquainted ourselves with the young Jocotoco Antpitta, that simply would not leave us alone. At one point, once we thought we had lost it, we watched as it literally stalked us along the trail!

Having lost the antpitta we tried the tape a couple of times for the Ocellated Tapaculo that we so wanted this morning, to no avail. We spent a little time trying for and finally getting a marvelous Barred Antthrush a little further on, before returning to the "tapaculo" spot a little later. On returning to the very same spot just thirty minutes or so later we were startled to hear a pair of Ocellated Tapaculos calling loudly! What followed was the greatest Ocellated Tapaculo show that I had ever experienced. Just a quick burst of tape bought them crashing clumsily through the undergrowth, and periodically emerging out of the dark depths to call back from an open branch. This culminated in one particularly excitable bird that actually landed on the open trails beside me. Thankfully I did not stand open mouthed for too long and managed to crack one shot off of this once in a lifetime performance...(top photo). One of the classic Andean birds for sure, with its cherry-red face, and boldly dotted plumage.

With time running out, what with all the time we had spent with the polka-dotted one, we hastened back down the trail, only to be distracted by the arrival of the two adult Jocotoco Antpittas that were a little less shameful than the tame juvenile, at least occasionally retreating into cover! (bottom two photos) After leaving Tapichalaca (seeing a gorgeous Golden-crowned Tanager as we left), we endured the long, long drive to Cuenca, after which we settled in to our hotel, and started thinking ahead to tomorrows final day, in the high Andean paramo of El Cajas...

More Tapichalaca Antpittas (pm)...(Ecuador): 16 Feb 2010

After lunch with hummingbirds and the usual afternoon cloud descending over Tapichalaca, we opted to take a short drive downslope to check some forest patches around the town of Valladolid, that holds a different suite of birds to the temperate birds found around the reserve at Tapichalaca. On the way down we had one of the sightings of the trip, a juvenile Semicollared Hawk that was perched rather brazenly by the roadside as we descended, allowing for the odd photo too (top photo). Down at Valladolid the main target feel pretty easily, Maranon Thrush, so named as it is confined to the Maranon drainage basin of southern Ecuador and extreme northern Peru. After picking up a few other titbits, like Mottle-backed Elaenia and Olive-chested Flycatcher, we drove back up into the cloud of Tapichalaca. Rich and Terry chose to relax in the late afternoon while took a stroll on one of the trails close to the lodge, where I rain into this Rufous Antpitta hopping along the trail (my third antpitta for the day!) We all ended with the same female Swallow-tailed Nightjar flitting on and off the entrace track to the lodge as night fell.

Tapichalaca Antpittas and more (am)...(Ecuador): 16 Feb 2010

Today was a little less hurried than the day before, and we spent a relaxed morning on the Tapichalaca trails. The trails are lined with wet temperate forest, and is home to many special birds. Tapichalaca is one of the best spots in Ecuador for antpittas, and we picked up two of these with little trouble this morning. First the diminutive Slate-crowned Antpitta hopped onto an open bamboo branch for us as we made our way up the trail, then after a short pause to gorge on a White-throated Quail-Dove watched at a feeder, we ran into some researchers who are busy working with the reserve's flagship species, the recently (1997) described Jocotoco Antpitta. Judging by the fact a remarkably tame juvenile Jocotoco Antpitta was stood right beside them, I guess the antpitta is not too hard to study right now (photos)!!! This was one of the tame trio that have made finding this ordinarily shy forest bird relatively straightforward in recent years-a guides dream! While we watched this bold antpitta hopping around our feet, we were distracted by other avian delights too, with a Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan perched in the trees overhead, and a short time later a Green-and-black Fruiteater in a neighboring tree also.

A short walk further along the trail brought us another fruiteater, this time the larger and more boldly patterned Barred Fruiteater. At the end of the morning we retired to the lodge for lunch (picking up a Bearded Guan as we descended down the trail) and a hummingbird fest, with many buzzing around the busy Casa Simpson feeders, including Flame and Amethyst-throated Sunangels, although a short walk along the road was needed to find the local Rufous-capped Thornbill.

Utuana to Tapichalaca (with Catamayo in the middle), Ecuador: 15 Feb 2010

To say we crammed a lot into this day is an understatement. We begun our day in the southwestern highlands in and around Utuana, picking up a bunch of local species, then made our way across the Andes to the eastern temperate forests of Tapichalaca. Along the way we made a short detour to check for finches in Catamayo as well. The result of this action-packed day was lots of birds and some really, really special ones in the mix...

Utuana was looking grim at dawn, with low mist as we got out of the car, that then miraculously lifted, when the birds came thick and fast: first a number of constantly calling Line-cheeked Spinetails revealed themselves, then several pairs of Piura Hemispingus appeared, rapidly followed by Silvery Tanagers, and a striking pair of roadside Golden-headed Quetzals. Then we opted to drive higher up the road, but stopped to check a spot for Jelski's Chat-Tyrant, that paid off quicker than expected, and also alerted us to a calling Gray-headed Antbird nearby that very uncharacteristically allowed itself to be seen right from the roadside. (Normally they are buried deep within the bamboo). With things falling nicely into place we headed for the reserve upslope, hurried to the feeders, stopping for the incredibly dashing Black-crested Tit-Tyrant en-route, and then settled in by the feeders to enjoy the show. Namely for the numerous, and somewhat aggressive Rainbow Starfrontlets that were crowding the feeders, one of Ecuador's most colorful hummers (and that's saying something considering there are over 120 species of them!) Of course on this incredible birdy day we were soon drawn away from the starfrontlets, Speckled Hummers (bottom photo) and others as another pair of Black-crested Tit-Tyrants deservedly lured us away, that also led us to a bonus pair of Bay-crowned Brush-Finches that fed out in the open, again rather uncharacteristically.

Job done, and with time pressing on this short tour we had to leave Utuana and head east into the province of Zamora-Chinchipe. However, before we entered that state we stopped for a frantic fifteen minute spell at Catamayo, as it was kind of on the way, and frankly I could not resist. Luckily on this day all that was needed was that long to pick up Drab and Parrot-billed Seedeaters, Croaking Ground-Doves, and Peruvian Meadowlarks.

It was then full steam ahead to the wet temperate forests of Tapichalaca, the home of "Ridgely's" Antpitta (better known as Jocotoco). Amazingly, and for the first time for me, we arrived in nice weather and not a spot of rain. The fine weather permitted us to bird en-route, stopping for a roadside flock on the edge of the reserve brought us a pair of Black-headed Hemispingus mixed in with several dandy Golden-crowned Tanager (top photo). Once we reached the reserve we got some late afternoon Golden-plumed Parakeets, preening their handsome plumes in the late afternoon sun, and then waited at dusk for a Swallow-tailed Nightjar that landed on the lodge driveway, as a Rufous-bellied Nighthawk hawked overhead. The swallow-tailed was "only" a female (minus the extraordinary tail of the male), but after this mega days birding who were we to complain! The Jocotoco Antpitta was up next...